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Thursday, 19 August 2010

Visitors from another world!

On the 23rd of July my mum and sister braved what turned out to be the thoroughly uncomfortable experience of Air India to come visit me in Bangkok*

I had to go back into full-fledged tourist mode for this, and I came to find that we tourists do a whole lot of walking! Our whistle-stop tour of Thailand included:

Checking out the arson-victim Central World Pratunam shopping mall, where the best cineplex I've ever been to was destroyed. The loss of SF cinema was the only injury I suffered during the red shirt crisis. We also looked at MBK and Paragon, and rode canal boats (much cheaper and faster than taxis and should be crammed with dread-locked backpackers at those prices, who could compete with the certainly-not-crystal-clear-azure canal water for the “Most Offensive Odour” award)

A day out at the Ancient City in Samut Prakan, a park shaped like Thailand with replicas of various attractive architectural feats from around the country. You ride around on bikes (or golf buggies if you are wealthy or lazy). If you go on a busy day, however, be prepared to have your bike repeatedly stolen and replaced with some horrible little grey contraption by a moron. A moron who, despite the truly enormous selection of new and well-maintained bikes available at the entrance (including tandems, which are less likely to be stolen), elected to ride something you'd expect to see abandoned in a ditch - in a slum in Mogadishu. When my tandem was finally stolen, the brake line on the replacement snapped almost immediately.

Several days at the beach at Hua Hin. Phuket (Foo-ket, according to almost anyone white I've ever heard say it in Thailand) this and full moon that, but Hua Hin is close to Bangkok (2-3 hours), has a very nice, clean beach and isn't completely rammed with young Lonely Planet-totting hedonists raving about buckets of rum and how “This is Buck from America, we met him in Bangkok last month, then again Siam Reap at the guest house, then again in Luang Prabang at the guest house, then again in Hoi An at the guest house and also in Ho Chi Mihn city at the guest house, then this afternoon again on the Ko Sarn [sic] road.” More families and older couples at Hua Hin.

The only downside to this trip was that a broken tile in the swimming pool (the sea was too salty for my tastes so most of the swimming was in the hotel pool) sliced my right big toe open, which bled both copiously and enduringly.

Having insidiously wormed my way into the hearts and minds of the people at Taweechai Elephant Camp (in Kanchanaburi) we went to stay there for a few days to enjoy the elephants. Staying in a house belonging to the son of the camp's owner, we spent our time riding, bathing and feeding the elephants, as well as playing with the camp's baby elephant. Unfortunately, as he is approaching his first birthday, he is now far too big for me to wrestle with, but he remembers our daily battles and yearns to show off his new techniques (He has mastered his accuracy problems in slapping you with his trunk, which he proudly demonstrated on my face while I was looking away).

Iranian readers will be interested to know that the forthcoming cinema epic, “The Maritime Silk Road” features one of the elephants from the camp. Many Thai shows also use the camp because of it's proximity to Bangkok, and while we were at the camp the elephant my sister had bathed that afternoon (also the father of my friend the 300kg baby) was on such as show, which was mind-blowing.

Finally, we went up north to the village I live in. This was the most worrying part of the trip because it's not an “indoor-plumbing” village and the toilet is basic. I love it. My mum and sister seemed to manage fine with it in the end, though probably didn't enjoy it.

Think about it like this: You were walking along and tripped over like the clumsy bean you are, and managed to put one of your hands, or even just a finger, in a pile of excrement of the animal of your choice! Damn. If the Microsoft Paper-clip popped up and said “I see you're covered in faeces. Would you like some tissue or a bucket of water?” Which one do you think would be cleaner? So what makes the bum any different?



*Something I find quite odd is that it is only foreigners who refer to the capital of Thailand as Bangkok. All 60 million + Thais call it (roughly) Grung-Thép. Yet Thailand happily translates กรุงเทพ (Grung-Thép) into Bangkok, which as we say it should look more like บังคก. Whilst many country names are not the same in the native language and in other languages (Japan/Nippon, Thailand/ Pratét Thai to name just two English examples) cities are generally given their native names, albeit with slightly different pronunciation. Bangkok/Grung-Thép an aberration!

I won't be updating this blog any more - go to The Penang Blog to see my new and exciting Malaysia blog!

Thursday, 22 July 2010

Burn the witch!

Ever the intrepid adventure, when it was suggested that I try some Akha healing techniques to try and help speed up my shoulder getting better, I jumped at the chance, even though since that "tribe" programme whenever I think of traditional medicine the words "penis inversion" always spring to mind. I didn't ask for a detailed explanation of what would happen, but I was told that it would hurt.

It turned out my shoulder would essentially be repeatedly stabbed with a red hot metal spike, before a black paste derived from the bone of a mountain goat would be applied to the branded shoulder, which would then be slapped with a small bamboo paddle.

The actual stabbing was admittedly 3 bouts of around 20 pricks each, which was relatively unpleasant, as I felt and heard my skin melt and fizzle. That said, it didn't hurt much.

I don't know what the black paste derived from a bone does, but my guess is that the branding stimulates blood flow to the area, which speeds up the healing process. I'm told that if it's not better tomorrow I will have 5 rounds of pricking, then the next day 7, then 9.

Definitely an interesting method of healing and we'll see if it helps before I have to undergo 20 rounds and get slapped with a larger paddle.

I won't be updating this blog any more - go to The Penang Blog to see my new and exciting Malaysia blog!

Wednesday, 14 July 2010

The most exciting day!

My last post featured soldiers arresting drug dealers AND a poisonous snake, but today had much more up it's sleeve!

The dog truck, a pickup with a rusty cage in the back filled with dogs, arrived in the village, and because both of our dogs here died recently I thought a new one was in order, so I bought a dog! The price was 35 baht per kilo (since these dogs were meant for killing) so I now have 14kg of dog!

I knew I had to be careful with buying a dog like this because who knows how it has previously lived. I saw how mine was pretty calm in the cramped cage and decided it had a good attitude. It (She) still got very angry at the rough handling the villagers provided in transporting her to the garden. Never one to be afraid of an animal bite I set about befriending her. I left some water and nibbles, let her smell my hand and left her for an hour while I had dinner. After, I went and gave her some fish, which she took from my hand without snatching. A fine temperment indeed. She eventually snuggled up to me. I'm sure in a few days she can come off the leash.

13 might be unlucky for some but it was an excellent day for me.

I won't be updating this blog any more - go to The Penang Blog to see my new and exciting Malaysia blog!